30 May 2004 09:30:08
The Checkered Demon
WSD Spring 04

Date: May 29, 2004
Time: 9-11am / 12-2 pm
Spots: Point/reef in the am, beachbreak in the pm
Conditions: Small, clean, breezy, inconsistent
Air temp: 54
Water temp: 52
Swell: 2-3 ft @ 9-10sec
Surf: Knee to waist, couple bigger sets
Wind: Straight offshore, and gusty
Gear: 4/3 suit, 5 mil boots, 2 mil gloves,
Vehicle(s): 8'0" Yater "Baby Spoon"
7'0" "Backyard" hybrid

First go-out:
Caught the low tide at a point/reef combo spot.
No-one out, but me. Inconsistent sets, stiff offshore
winds (15-20 mph). When it's small, this spot
only works on a low tide. As the tide comes up,
it backs off inside and doesn't connect.

Took off well behind the peak on one wave, and blew
the kickout as the section shut down ahead of me. My
board got caught in the lip, came right back at me, and
smacked my knee. Split the rail open. I left the water,
since the tide was filling in, anyway, and I didn't want the
ding to soak up too much water.
I went back to the house to grab a bite, check my messages,
and pick up another board.

------------ ------------
Second go-out:
Headed for a beach break spot, around noon.
Much to my delight, the beach break was a bit bigger than
when I'd left, earlier. Also, there were a couple of attractive
young women in the water. Weekend 'visitors'.
So, a no-brainer.
Paddled out on my home-made hybrid. It's a 7'0 x 21, wide nose,
square tail, with a deep 'twanger' single fin. Works great in small,
gutless beach break, and I can knee paddle it.
After about an hour, three more young guys showed up. Local
kids, who are fun to surf with. A father and son duo paddled out
a little later. The kid caught more waves than his dad. The father
caught nary a one, while the son couldn't manage to get to his
feet, at all:

The young women created a pleasant diversion, between sets.
Turns out they know some old friends of mine, from Rhody.
I got an email address, and phone #, from one of them.
Possible future 'house guest' ;-) .
Not a bad way to spend a Saturday afternoon.

One of the local kids:

An empty beach break wave:

All photos shot 'post-go-out', with my cheap-ass, low res Mavica.

- - -
Off to the Big Apple
"WORK!!!!" - Maynard G Krebbs