24 Jan 2005 18:05:40
SKIPPER
Dry heave morning

This morning I got up to check for surf. 8-10 foot walls roared
onto the outer bars. The tops just barely broke, and then passed
through the channels to the inner bars with detonation onto the sand.
Over Ocean Beach's 3.5 miles, there were only five people surfing.
Conditions were very rideable. What had happened?

We gotta re-wind to last Tuesday. In the afternoon, new long period
groundswell came in. Long lulls allowed an easy paddle-out, and with no
wind the waves were very makeable.

Wednesday morning it started. The intensity of a marginal paddle-out
day, with outer bar set waves having 20 to 30 foot faces. I had to try
to paddle out twice, caught two waves on a 10 foot board, just blew my
mind. Here's a pic of someone Thursday morning (at the spot I surfed
Wednesday).
http://www.surfhumor.com/ps012005OB%20123.jpg

Thursday was a repeat. Nearly every hard charger in town scored one or
both of these days. If that weren't enough, the other breaks in town
also went off, as did all the breaks well to our south. I hadda work
this day.

Friday. Whew....swell dwindling off. A mere DOH on the bigger sets. The
outer bars filled with surfers (it was pretty sparse Wednesday and
Thursday). Still offshore flow, winds from 5-10 knots into the wave
faces. A kazillion waves ridden on the outer bars. I blew outta work
early enough to catch the last two hours of light.

Saturday it dropped a little in swell size, down around 8 foot faces,
and new hollow bars had formed that led to shack city all up and down
the 3.5 mile stretch. I netted 3 barrels in uncrowded conditions. The
drama factor was WAY low as the super clean conditions, warm 65 degree
air, and sunshine combined to put the stoke of a grom into all. You
couldn't have painted a postcard more pretty than the waves coming in
the early afternoon.

As if that weren't enough, Sunday was a repeat of Saturday. More
barrelicious waves all up and down the stretch.

So come Monday, swell fine, tide a little off, and no one surfs. Went
home, then went to work. Still tired. A good six day run...

-PA





24 Jan 2005 14:20:26
Surfer Bob
Re: Dry heave morning

SKIPPER wrote:
> http://www.surfhumor.com/ps012005OB%20123.jpg

That's a formidable wave, senor. Very impressive. Down at my little
pointbreak kiddie pool I rode some close to 2XO that day in Ventura and
similarly clean and muscular. Much surf 4 days in a row for me. Sat was
fuggly onshore and uninspiring after all the larger perfection. Sun was
gentle fun to head high.

Thanks for reporting.

AwooooOOO!!!
Surfer Bob



26 Jan 2005 04:12:07
SKIPPER
Re: Dry heave morning

Surfer Bob <surferbeto@hotmail.com > wrote:
> SKIPPER wrote:
> > http://www.surfhumor.com/ps012005OB%20123.jpg

> That's a formidable wave, senor. Very impressive. Down at my little
> pointbreak kiddie pool I rode some close to 2XO that day in Ventura and
> similarly clean and muscular. Much surf 4 days in a row for me. Sat was
> fuggly onshore and uninspiring after all the larger perfection. Sun was
> gentle fun to head high.

> Thanks for reporting.

> AwooooOOO!!!
> Surfer Bob

BTW, here is me on Wednesday

http://www.splashcreations.com/surf/OB_01-19-05/OB_011905_2.jpg

went left and made it...

awoooooo...

-PA



25 Jan 2005 21:36:40
Surfer Bob
Re: Dry heave morning

SKIPPER wrote:
> BTW, here is me on Wednesday
> http://www.splashcreations.com/surf/OB_01-19-05/OB_011905_2.jpg
> went left and made it...
> awoooooo...

AwooooOOOO(!!!) indeed. I'd say you're mighty glad you made it.

Dick? You got anything to say about Skipper's accomplishment here? The
dude's got balls and style and sack.

AwoooOOOO!!!
Surfer Bob



25 Jan 2005 22:46:22
Gioni
Re: Dry heave morning

Excellent wave and pic! That's an awfully small 10 foot board you've
got there.

G



26 Jan 2005 16:46:44
westoz
Re: Dry heave morning


"SKIPPER" <skipper@blakestah.com > wrote in message
news:rMEJd.15843$5R.9466@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...
> Surfer Bob <surferbeto@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> SKIPPER wrote:
>> > http://www.surfhumor.com/ps012005OB%20123.jpg
>
>> That's a formidable wave, senor. Very impressive. Down at my little
>> pointbreak kiddie pool I rode some close to 2XO that day in Ventura and
>> similarly clean and muscular. Much surf 4 days in a row for me. Sat was
>> fuggly onshore and uninspiring after all the larger perfection. Sun was
>> gentle fun to head high.
>
>> Thanks for reporting.
>
>> AwooooOOO!!!
>> Surfer Bob
>
> BTW, here is me on Wednesday
>
> http://www.splashcreations.com/surf/OB_01-19-05/OB_011905_2.jpg
>
> went left and made it...
>
> awoooooo...
>
> -PA
>

Nice one Dave.




26 Jan 2005 04:46:15
todd
Re: Dry heave morning

excellent report pa:-)....todd.

............... ><}}}}}">................
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